Monterey and Carmel sit side by side at the southern end of Monterey Bay, and together they make one of the best short trips from San Francisco. Monterey is a working town with a long history: the capital of Spanish and Mexican California, then a sardine-canning center. Carmel-by-the-Sea is a small, wooded village of cottages, galleries and a white sand beach. Between them lies Pacific Grove and the Monterey Peninsula's private coast road, 17-Mile Drive.
Getting there
From San Francisco there are two ways. The faster route takes US 101 south through San Jose to Highway 156 and then Highway 1, about two and a half hours without traffic. The scenic route follows Highway 1 down the coast through Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz, about three hours or more. A good plan is to take the coast road one way and the freeway the other.
Monterey
Cannery Row and the aquarium
The old canneries along the waterfront, made famous by John Steinbeck's novel, now hold shops, hotels and restaurants. At the end of the row is the Monterey Bay Aquarium, one of the best known in the country, with a towering kelp forest tank and an open-ocean gallery. It is busy on weekends and school holidays; buy tickets ahead and check opening times before you go.
Old Monterey and the wharf
Monterey State Historic Park preserves adobe buildings from the town's Spanish and Mexican years, including the old Custom House near the water. Old Fisherman's Wharf is touristy but fun for a walk and a look at the sea lions. A paved recreation trail follows the shore from the wharf area to Pacific Grove and is good for walking or cycling.
Pacific Grove and 17-Mile Drive
Pacific Grove, next door, is quieter, with Victorian houses and a rocky shoreline road with tide pools and benches. In fall and winter, monarch butterflies cluster in a eucalyptus grove in town; numbers vary a great deal from year to year.
17-Mile Drive is a private toll road through the Del Monte Forest between Pacific Grove and Carmel, past golf courses, mansions, rocky points and the much-photographed Lone Cypress. Cars pay at the gate; check current rules and fees before you go. Cyclists can usually ride it without the vehicle fee.
Carmel-by-the-Sea
Carmel is best seen on foot. Park once, then walk down Ocean Avenue to Carmel Beach, a broad crescent of white sand framed by cypress trees, and wander the side streets of storybook cottages. The village has no street addresses for most houses, few chain stores and a strong local character. The Carmel Mission, founded in the 18th century and the burial place of JunÃpero Serra, lies on the south edge of town and is worth an hour.
For a sunset, head to the south end of Carmel Beach or follow Scenic Road along the shore toward Carmel River State Beach, where a lagoon attracts birds and the view runs south toward the Big Sur hills. Dogs are welcome on Carmel Beach, and locals bring them in numbers.
A few minutes south, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve has some of the finest short coastal walks in California. Come early: the parking lot inside fills quickly. It is also the gateway to Big Sur, which begins just beyond.
When to go
The peninsula has a mild climate all year. Summer is often gray and cool in the mornings, which surprises visitors. September and October usually bring the sunniest, clearest days. Winter is quiet and good value, with occasional storms. Weekends and holidays are much busier than weekdays at any time of year.
Practical tips
- Parking: Cannery Row has public garages; downtown Carmel has limited time on the street and a few public lots. Read the signs, as time limits are enforced.
- Layers: even in summer, bring a warm top. The wind off the bay is cool.
- Lodging: Carmel and Monterey both fill up on summer weekends and during big golf and car events. Book well ahead, and see booking a hotel for timing.
- Combine: this area fits naturally into a longer drive on the Pacific Coast Highway.
Frequently asked questions
Is Monterey a good day trip from San Francisco?
It can be done in a day, but the round trip takes five hours or more of driving. One night, or two, is far more relaxed.
Is 17-Mile Drive worth it?
For coastal scenery and the Lone Cypress, most visitors think so. If you are short on time, the free shoreline road in Pacific Grove gives a similar taste.
Where should I stay, Monterey or Carmel?
Monterey has more choice and is better for the aquarium. Carmel is quieter and more charming, and closer to Big Sur.