Napa Valley is the best known wine region in the United States: a narrow valley north of San Pablo Bay, about 30 miles long, lined with vineyards and wineries from the city of Napa in the south to Calistoga in the north. Two parallel roads run its length, which makes the valley easy to drive and easy to plan. This guide covers the drive itself; for combining it with Sonoma, see our Napa and Sonoma day trip.
Getting there
From San Francisco, the most scenic way is across the Golden Gate Bridge on US 101 through Marin, then east on Highway 37 and north on Highway 121 past the Carneros district into Napa. The alternative is across the Bay Bridge and up Interstate 80 to Highway 29. Either way, allow about an hour to an hour and a half, much more on Friday afternoons and summer weekends.
The two roads
Highway 29
The main road on the west side of the valley, passing through all the towns. It is the busier of the two, lined with large, famous wineries, and it can be slow, especially in the afternoon and on weekends.
The Silverado Trail
The quieter road along the eastern foot of the hills, with smaller wineries and wider views across the vineyards. Cross-roads link the two at several points, so you can drive up one and back down the other.
The towns from south to north
- Napa: the largest town, with a revived riverfront downtown, tasting rooms you can walk between and a food hall in a former factory building.
- Yountville: small and polished, known for its concentration of acclaimed restaurants.
- Oakville and Rutherford: hardly towns at all, but home to some of the valley's best known vineyards.
- St. Helena: a handsome old main street of stone buildings, shops and cafes.
- Calistoga: at the north end, a relaxed town known for hot springs and mud baths.
Beyond the wine
Not everyone in the car wants to taste all day. Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, near Calistoga, has shady trails among redwoods and oaks, and the Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park next to it preserves a 19th-century water-powered mill. The Napa Valley Vine Trail, a walking and biking path, now covers parts of the valley. Hot air balloon flights rise over the vineyards early in the morning in good weather.
For a view down the whole valley, drive up one of the roads into the hills on either side. Highway 128 north of Calistoga and the winding roads over to Sonoma, such as the Oakville Grade, climb through oak woods with views back over the vineyards. They are narrow and steep in places, so take them slowly and save them for a driver who has not been tasting.
When to go
Harvest, from late summer into October, is the most exciting time, with grapes coming in and the vines turning gold and red, but it is also the busiest and most expensive. Late winter and early spring are quiet and green, with wild mustard flowering yellow between the rows. Summer is hot in the valley. Weekdays are far calmer than weekends in every season.
Fire seasons in recent years have sometimes affected the region in late summer and fall. Check current conditions and air quality before you go.
Practical tips
- Book tastings: many wineries now require or strongly prefer appointments. Plan two or three a day, not six.
- Do not drink and drive: the roads are patrolled, and California's limits are strictly enforced. Choose a designated driver, share the spitting bucket, or use a driver or shuttle for the day.
- Eat: plan a proper lunch between tastings. Many wineries allow picnics only in designated areas, if at all.
- Left turns: turning across traffic on Highway 29 can be slow and risky. Be patient, and use a turn lane where there is one.
- Cyclists: watch for them on the Silverado Trail and side roads.
- Lodging: rooms in the valley are expensive, especially at harvest. Some visitors stay in the city and drive up; see where to stay in San Francisco.
Frequently asked questions
Can I visit Napa without a car?
It is harder. Some tours and local buses run, but a car or hired driver gives far more freedom. Just make sure the driver is not tasting.
How many wineries can I visit in a day?
Two or three is comfortable, with lunch in between. More than that and the day becomes a blur.
Is Napa or Sonoma better?
Napa is more polished and concentrated. Sonoma is larger, more spread out and often more relaxed. Both are within easy reach of the city.