Salem, on the coast north of Boston, is famous worldwide for the witch trials of 1692, when a wave of accusations led to the executions of twenty people. But the town is also one of the oldest seaports in America, once grown rich on trade with Asia, with streets of handsome Federal-era houses, a maritime national historic site and one of the oldest museums in the country. It makes an easy and rewarding day trip.

Getting there

  • By train: the commuter rail runs from Boston's North Station to Salem in about half an hour. Trains are frequent on weekdays, less so at weekends.
  • By ferry: in the warmer months, a seasonal ferry runs from Boston's waterfront to Salem, a scenic crossing. Check the season's schedule.
  • By car: possible, but parking is limited, especially in October.

The witch trials

In 1692, in the village then part of Salem, a group of young women began having fits that local ministers blamed on witchcraft. Accusations spread through the community and beyond. Over the following months, more than a hundred people were jailed; nineteen were hanged and one man was pressed to death with stones for refusing to enter a plea. Within a few years, many involved admitted the trials had been a terrible mistake.

  • The Salem Witch Trials Memorial: a quiet, moving memorial with stone benches bearing the names of the victims, next to the old burying ground.
  • Proctor's Ledge: the site identified in recent years as the place of the executions, now marked by a memorial.
  • The Witch House: the home of one of the trial judges, the only building in Salem with direct ties to the trials.
  • Many commercial "witch" attractions line the streets; they vary widely in quality and accuracy.

The Peabody Essex Museum

Founded in 1799 by sea captains to display objects brought home from voyages, the Peabody Essex Museum is often described as the oldest continuously operating museum in the United States. Its collections are outstanding, including Asian, maritime and Native American art, and it even holds a complete Chinese merchant's house, Yin Yu Tang, moved from China and rebuilt inside the museum. Allow at least two hours.

The maritime town

  • Salem Maritime National Historical Park: wharves, a replica tall ship and the Custom House where Nathaniel Hawthorne once worked.
  • The House of the Seven Gables: the seventeenth-century mansion that inspired Hawthorne's novel, with tours and seaside gardens.
  • Chestnut Street: one of the most beautiful streets of Federal-era houses in the country.

Salem in October

Salem celebrates Halloween all month, with events, costumes, parades and huge crowds, especially at weekends. Trains are packed, restaurants have long waits and accommodation sells out. If you go in October, go on a weekday and book any tours in advance; for a quieter visit, choose another month.

A day in Salem

  1. Morning train from North Station.
  2. The Peabody Essex Museum.
  3. Lunch near the pedestrian mall.
  4. The witch trials memorial and the Witch House.
  5. Derby Wharf and the House of the Seven Gables.
  6. Train back to Boston.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to get to Salem from Boston?

About half an hour by commuter rail from North Station. See getting around Boston.

Is Salem worth visiting outside October?

Yes. The history, the museum and the waterfront are better without the crowds.

Is Salem suitable for children?

Yes, though some attractions are spooky. The museum and the tall ship are good for families.