After the 1906 earthquake, many Japanese families settled in the Western Addition, and after the World War II, when Japanese Americans had been sent to internment camps, Black families moving west for war work settled in the same streets. The Fillmore became known for its jazz clubs, a scene so lively it was called the Harlem of the West. Redevelopment in the 1950s and 60s cleared much of both communities. What survived is still worth seeing.
Japantown
San Francisco's Japantown is one of only a few remaining in the United States. Its center is the Japan Center, a group of malls connected by bridges, full of Japanese restaurants, bookshops, stationery and housewares stores, and a large Japanese bookstore. In the plaza outside stands the five-tiered Peace Pagoda, a gift from Osaka in 1968. Small streets nearby have more shops and sweet makers.
The Fillmore
Fillmore Street runs north from Japantown. On its corner with Geary stands the Fillmore, the music hall where promoter Bill Graham staged the great San Francisco rock shows of the 1960s; it still hosts concerts. Plaques along the street mark the old jazz clubs. North of Geary, Fillmore Street turns into an upmarket shopping street of boutiques and restaurants.
Practical notes
Come at lunchtime for ramen or udon, then walk north up Fillmore. The Painted Ladies at Alamo Square are a few blocks south, and from there it is a walk on to the Haight.
A short history
The Western Addition, including the Fillmore, survived the 1906 fire, and for a time Fillmore Street became the city's main shopping street while downtown was rebuilt. Japanese immigrants settled in the area in large numbers, creating one of the largest Japantowns in the country. In 1942, Japanese Americans were forced from their homes and sent to internment camps; the neighborhood emptied.
During the war, thousands of Black workers came to San Francisco for jobs in the shipyards, and many settled in the Fillmore. By the 1940s and 50s it had dozens of jazz and blues clubs, earning the name the Harlem of the West. From the 1950s, a city redevelopment program demolished thousands of Victorian homes and many businesses, displacing both the Black community and returning Japanese American families. The scars are still visible, but both communities' histories remain alive in the neighborhood.
A walking route
- Start at the Peace Plaza in Japantown, with the five-tiered Peace Pagoda.
- Explore the Japan Center malls, with Japanese bookstores, restaurants and shops.
- Walk Buchanan Street Mall, a pedestrian lane with cherry trees and origami-inspired fountains.
- Head to Fillmore Street and the corner of Geary, home of the Fillmore music hall.
- Follow the jazz heritage plaques south along Fillmore.
- Walk north up Fillmore Street towards Pacific Heights for boutiques and cafés.
Eating
Japantown has some of the city's best ramen, udon, sushi and Japanese sweets, and it is a good place for a casual lunch. The Fillmore has soul food and Southern restaurants, and upper Fillmore Street has bakeries, wine bars and stylish restaurants.
Festivals and events
The Northern California Cherry Blossom Festival in April fills Japantown with performances and a parade. The Fillmore Jazz Festival, in early summer, is one of the largest free jazz festivals on the West Coast.
Frequently asked questions
Is Japantown worth visiting?
Yes, especially for food, shopping and the Peace Plaza, and as part of a walk through the neighborhood.
Can I see a concert at the Fillmore?
Yes, it still hosts regular concerts. Check the schedule and buy tickets in advance.
How do I get there?
Several buses run along Geary Boulevard and Fillmore Street.