Dim sum is the Cantonese tradition of small dishes eaten with tea, mostly in the morning and early afternoon. San Francisco has a long history of it, and Chinatown has everything from banquet halls to holes in the wall.

How ordering works

In some restaurants, servers push carts or carry trays between tables and you point at what you want; they mark your card. In others, you tick boxes on a paper menu and dishes come from the kitchen. Either way, order a few things at a time and add more as you go. Tea arrives first; leave the teapot lid open or tilted when you want more water.

What to try

  • Har gow: shrimp dumplings in translucent wrappers.
  • Siu mai: open pork and shrimp dumplings.
  • Char siu bao: soft buns filled with barbecued pork, steamed or baked.
  • Cheung fun: rice noodle rolls with shrimp or beef, in sweet soy sauce.
  • Lo mai gai: sticky rice steamed in a lotus leaf.
  • Egg tarts: flaky pastry with a wobbly custard, to finish.

Takeout

Several small Chinatown shops sell dim sum by the piece to take away, at very low prices. Buy a bag of dumplings and buns and eat them in Portsmouth Square or on a walk up to North Beach. See San Francisco on a budget for more cheap eats.

When to go

Late morning is best, when the kitchens have the widest choice. Weekends are busiest: arrive early or expect to wait, often for a shared table.

A short history of dim sum

Dim sum grew out of the tea houses along the Silk Road and in southern China, where travelers stopped to rest and drink tea with small snacks. In Guangzhou and Hong Kong, "yum cha", literally "drink tea", became a social ritual: families gathering on weekend mornings over endless small dishes. Cantonese immigrants brought the tradition to San Francisco, and the city's tea houses have served it for more than a century. The Bay Area now has some of the best dim sum outside Asia, much of it in the Richmond and Sunset districts and the southern suburbs, but Chinatown remains the most atmospheric place to try it.

Dim sum etiquette

  • Pour tea for others before yourself.
  • Tap two fingers on the table to thank the person pouring your tea, a custom with a story about an emperor traveling in disguise.
  • Share everything: dishes come in portions of three or four pieces, meant to be shared.
  • Do not stick chopsticks upright in rice; it is associated with funerals.
  • Ask for the check, or bring your marked card to the counter; it rarely arrives on its own.

More dishes to try

  • Turnip cake: pan-fried squares of grated radish and rice flour, with bits of sausage and shrimp.
  • Chicken feet: braised in black bean sauce, a favorite of regulars.
  • Sesame balls: crisp fried dough with sweet bean paste inside.
  • Shrimp-stuffed eggplant and peppers, pan-fried.
  • Custard buns: soft steamed buns with a sweet egg custard filling.

Frequently asked questions

Is dim sum served all day?

Traditionally it is a morning and lunchtime meal. Some restaurants serve it until mid-afternoon; few serve it in the evening.

Is dim sum good for vegetarians?

There are vegetable dumplings, buns and greens, but many dishes contain pork or shrimp. Ask.

How much should I order?

About three or four dishes per person, plus tea, is usually plenty. Start small and add more.