Central Market, also called Mid-Market, is the stretch of Market Street roughly between Fifth Street and Van Ness Avenue. It was once the city's grand entertainment street, and its big theaters still stage touring Broadway shows. It sits beside the Civic Center and the Tenderloin, and it is the most mixed part of downtown: civic grandeur and great cheap food next to visible poverty and street drug use.
What to see
- City Hall, a Beaux-Arts palace with a dome taller than the one on the U.S. Capitol. The rotunda is open to visitors on weekdays.
- The Asian Art Museum, facing City Hall across the plaza, with one of the largest collections of Asian art in the West.
- The theaters: the Orpheum and the Golden Gate Theatre, ornate 1920s halls that host touring musicals.
- The Heart of the City Farmers Market at United Nations Plaza, a long-running, inexpensive market on Wednesdays and Sundays.
Eating
Just north of Market, around Larkin Street, is Little Saigon, with some of the best Vietnamese food in the city: bánh mì shops, pho and family restaurants. The surrounding blocks also have Thai, Burmese and Indian places. Prices are some of the lowest downtown.
Staying safe
By day, with ordinary care, the main streets are fine. After dark, stay on busy, well-lit streets, take a ride rather than walking long blocks, and keep phones out of sight. See staying safe in big cities. If you are choosing a hotel, compare the area with other options in where to stay in San Francisco. SoMa and its museums are just across Market.
A short history
Market Street was laid out in the 1840s as the city's main artery, running from the waterfront towards Twin Peaks. In the early twentieth century, the stretch west of Fifth Street was lined with movie palaces, vaudeville houses and department stores, and its brightly lit marquees made it the city's "Great White Way". As shopping moved to Union Square and the suburbs, and audiences to television, many theaters closed and the area declined. Recent decades have seen waves of investment, new offices and apartments, alongside persistent problems with homelessness and drugs on some blocks.
The Civic Center
Just south-west of Mid-Market is one of the finest groups of Beaux-Arts public buildings in the country. City Hall, completed in 1915, has a grand rotunda and staircase and has hosted everything from state funerals to thousands of weddings. Around the plaza stand the War Memorial Opera House, where the United Nations Charter was signed in 1945, Davies Symphony Hall, the main public library and the Asian Art Museum in the former library building. Free docent tours of City Hall run on weekdays.
An afternoon route
- Start at City Hall and walk up the grand staircase.
- Cross the plaza to the Asian Art Museum for an hour or two.
- Walk through United Nations Plaza, where the farmers market sets up on market days.
- Head north into Little Saigon for an early dinner of pho or bánh mì.
- Catch a show at one of the Market Street theaters, booked in advance.
Frequently asked questions
Is Mid-Market safe for visitors?
By day, with ordinary care, the main streets are fine and busy with office workers. After dark, use busy streets, keep your phone away and take a ride for longer distances.
What shows play at the Orpheum and Golden Gate Theatre?
Mostly touring Broadway musicals and plays. Check the current season and buy tickets from the theaters' official box office.
Is it a good place to stay?
Some hotels here are good value, but read reviews carefully for comments about the street. Many visitors prefer Union Square, Nob Hill or SoMa.