The coast of Maine is long, ragged and endlessly indented, a shore of rocky points, deep harbors, pine-covered islands and white lighthouses. A drive up it from Boston runs from busy beach towns in the south to the mountains and cliffs of Acadia National Park. You can reach Bar Harbor in about five hours by the fast roads, but the pleasure is in the slow coastal route and the towns along it.
The route in order
- Boston to Portsmouth (about 1 hour). Head north on Interstate 95 through the North Shore and across the short New Hampshire coast. Portsmouth, an old seaport with a lively, walkable downtown, makes a good first stop. Getting out of the city is covered in getting around Boston.
- York and Ogunquit (about 20 to 30 minutes). Just over the Maine line, York has long sandy beaches and Nubble Lighthouse on its little island off Cape Neddick. Ogunquit has a fine beach and the Marginal Way, a paved cliff path along the shore.
- Kennebunkport (about 30 minutes). A handsome old shipbuilding town of white houses and a busy harbor.
- Portland (about 40 minutes). Maine's largest city has a restored waterfront district of brick and cobblestones, the Old Port, and a strong food scene. Portland Head Light, in Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth, is one of the most photographed lighthouses in the country.
- Midcoast on US 1 (most of a day). North of Portland, US 1 links Freeport, Brunswick, the shipbuilding city of Bath, and Wiscasset. Side roads lead down long peninsulas to Boothbay Harbor and Pemaquid Point, with its lighthouse on tilted rock ledges. Farther on are Rockland, a working harbor with an art museum, and Camden, a pretty harbor town under hills you can drive or hike up for views over Penobscot Bay.
- To Bar Harbor and Acadia (about 2 hours from Camden). The road crosses the Penobscot River near Bucksport, passes Ellsworth and reaches Mount Desert Island.
Acadia National Park
Acadia covers much of Mount Desert Island. The Park Loop Road takes in Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, the cliffs of Otter Point and Jordan Pond. Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the coast, has sweeping views; in recent years a vehicle reservation has been needed to drive up during the busy season, and the rules can change, so check before you go. Miles of carriage roads, built for horse-drawn carriages and closed to cars, are perfect for walking and cycling. Bar Harbor is the main town; Southwest Harbor and Northeast Harbor are quieter.
The western side of the island, sometimes called the quiet side, has the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse, fishing villages and fewer crowds. Across Frenchman Bay, the Schoodic Peninsula section of the park has its own loop road along a wild granite shore and is far less visited than the main island. If you have an extra day, it is well worth the drive.
When to go
Summer, from late June through August, is the main season, warm but rarely hot, with long days. September is calmer and often clear. Fall color usually arrives in early to mid October; see New England fall foliage drives. Many seasonal businesses close from late fall to spring, especially north of Portland. Fog can roll in at any time of year.
Practical tips
- Tolls: the Maine Turnpike, Interstate 95 in southern Maine, is a toll road. Rental companies offer toll programs; check what yours charges.
- US 1 traffic: in summer the road crawls through Wiscasset and other towns. Start early, and accept that it is slow.
- Lodging: rooms around Bar Harbor and Camden fill up early for July, August and foliage season. Book well ahead.
- Acadia parking: lots at popular stops fill by mid-morning. A free seasonal shuttle has run on the island in recent summers; check whether it is operating.
- Park pass: Acadia charges an entrance fee. Buy a pass online or at a visitor center.
- Wildlife: moose are more common inland, but drive carefully at dawn and dusk anywhere in Maine.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need?
Three days covers the highlights quickly; five lets you slow down in Portland, the midcoast and Acadia.
Can I do the Maine coast as a day trip from Boston?
The southern towns, York, Ogunquit and Kennebunkport, and even Portland work as a long day trip. Acadia needs at least two nights.
Is the ocean warm enough to swim?
Maine's water is cold even in August. Southern beaches are the most swimmable; farther north, a quick dip is the norm. For warmer water, try Cape Cod.